HOD

These days HOD can easily be diagnosed as Panosteitis in Irish Wolfhounds

HOD - HYPERTROPHIC OSTEODYSTROPHY - BARLOW'S DISEASE, IDIOPATHIC OSTEODYSTROPHY, METAPHYSEAL OSTEOPATHY, MOLLER-BARLOW'S DISEASE, OSTEODYSTROPHY II AND SKELETAL SCURVY.

This Great Dane puppy suffering from HOD shows swollen joints on the front legs http://www.vetsurgerycentral.com/hod.htm This Great Dane puppy suffering from HOD shows swollen joints on the front legs http://www.vetsurgerycentral.com/hod.htm

Hypertrophic Osteodystrophy (HOD) is a bone disease that occurs in fast-growing large and giant breed dogs. The disorder is sometimes referred to as metaphyseal osteopathy, and typically first presents between the ages of 2 and 7 months.[1] HOD is characterized by decreased blood flow to the metaphysis (the part of the bone adjacent to the joint) leading to a failure of ossification (bone formation) and necrosis and inflammation of cancellous bone.[2] The disease is usually bilateral in the limb bones, especially the distal radius, ulna, and tibia. [ Wikipedia] Diagnosis

Presto was fine for a couple of days after the initial flare-up and then the following Friday the same thing happened again! Once more we rushed him to the vets and they recommended X-rays (done a few days later) and he received more pain relief and more antibiotics.

The X-rays came back completely normal for his spine, legs, hips and tail. I should mention at this point that a friend’s Wolfhound puppy had just been diagnosed with meningitis on the spine after showing similar symptoms to Presto and so we were all very worried about a long term prognosis for Presto. Again, Presto had a relapse a few days after finishing the medication and so we were referred to a local veterinary orthopaedic consultant (Graham Oliver at East Midlands Referrals in Hucknall, Nottingham) for an emergency MRI scan. The MRI finally found the cause of the problem in the top of Presto’s femurs (the long bones in the back legs that go from the knee up to the hip) where a cloudy area in the bone identified an area of infection actually inside the bone itself (see image below): Image shows Presto laid on his back with his left hind leg visible on the right hand side of the X-ray. The red arrows point to the outline of a circle of ‘clouded’ bone which is where the infection is located. A subsequent bone tap and sample taken from inside the femur confirmed that infection was present. The sample was grown on in the lab, but the results were inconclusive (not unusual with samples taken from joints or bone), other than it was definitely some kind of infection.

Taking X-rays to determine a diagnosis is the usual first step with suspected HOD and will certainly rule out several other possible conditions at least. In our case the X-rays were not that helpful and so the MRI scanner was used to go right inside the bones and identify the problem areas. As you can probably imagine though, MRI Scans are not cheap (neither are a set of X-rays) and so the cost of such investigations may be prohibitive if the dog is not covered by pet insurance, so do not be surprised if a ‘tentative’ rather than definite diagnosis is made. In Presto’s case the symptoms were not the usual ones seen with HOD and so other possible conditions were also indentified including Osteomyelitis. Wherever possible, a definitive diagnosis is essential as it will also determine the effectiveness of the treatment given and possibly affect how well the dog responds. * Treatment* Treatment methods for HOD have been somewhat controversial and are also dependent upon the severity and symptoms displayed and also whether the condition is caught at an early or advanced stage. Dogs with severe and late stage HOD may require hospitalization, IV fluids, nutritional support, round the clock nursing as well as a host of medications. Most sufferers are given pain relief in the form of NSAID’s and antibiotics, but some dogs may also be administered immunosuppressants and steroids (the latter 2 treatments may not be applicable for young puppies due to the possible effects on the growth plates). In Presto’s treatment plan daily doses of antibiotics (Ceporex) and anti-inflammatories (Previcox) were used over a period of 3 months to halt and clear up the infection and prevent the bone disintegrating (which would have been disastrous and resulted in euthanasia), alongside pain relief when required (Tramadol). The treatment was very successful and we were thankful that we had caught the condition very early and also had excellent veterinary care from both of our vets.

Causes

You may be wondering why I have put this section at the end of the article, when it is more usual to include it at the beginning? The main reason is that most research is inconclusive and so the cause or causes of the condition are NOT known and therefore less emphasis needs to be placed on what causes HOD. Also, the temptation for many owners is to try and identify ‘what went wrong’ and often this results in them blaming themselves. Please try and avoid doing this if you find yourself in the same situation, concentrate instead on getting a quick diagnosis and treatment for your dog. Some research studies into the condition have suggested possible triggers for HOD including:

Lack of vitamin C Overdose of vitamin C Diet too high in calories Bacterial infection Viral infection Excessive calcium supplementation Reaction to vaccination In Presto’s case we believe that it was a viral infection that set off the HOD as we found the infection present in the femurs on examination.

Summary

In conclusion, be reassured that HOD is not that common, particularly in Wolfhounds and if diagnosed and treated, the condition can be dealt with very successfully (Presto made a full recovery over several months). Also, it is one of those conditions that look like several other things and prompt veterinary attention is essential. The cost of treatment can run into several thousands of pounds however, so it is another great reason to ensure that your dog has adequate insurance cover. In very severe cases HOD can be fatal, but generally the prognosis is good.

© Ali Irvine 2013

Heat Exhaustion in Dogs

Heatstroke in Dogs

Reference Minnesota Chapter of NAVHDA

A dog's body temperature is normally between 101°F and 102°F.

Dogs regulate their body temperature by panting, expelling heat out, causing an evaporatory reaction. If they can not expel the heat fast enough, their body temperature rises. A rise of 3 degrees in body to a temperature to 105°F is all it takes to send your dog into a dangerous situation. At this temperature, the dog can no longer cope with reducing their body heat and the oxygen demand goes up to where the dog can not keep up. Therefore, their temperature continues to rise.

When the temperature hits 108°F, the heart, brain, liver, kidneys, and intestinal tracts start to begin breaking down at a cellular level, and the damage can progress at an alarming rate. Even immediate treatment and effective cooling to bring his temperature down can leave the dog with internal damage that may affect his health in long term ways.

Early Signs of Heat Stroke Signs of early stages of heat stroke include rapid breathing, dry mouth and nose, rapid heart rate, and gums that leave their healthy color for dull, grayish color. This grayish condition may also be visible in the tongue or rectum.

This situation is an emergency! Even at the earliest stage of heat stroke, you may be fighting for your dog's life. These symptoms can be followed in minutes by collapse, seizures, coma and death.

Field First Aid If your dog is showing the first signs of heat exhaustion, rapid breathing, rapid heart rate, or grayish gums take the dog to shade, and soak him with cool water. Do NOT use extremely cold or iced water. This will cause blood vessels to constrict and will stop the heat from escaping.

You can apply ice packs to the areas underneath his front legs, and to the groin area for rapid blood cooling. Give your dog enough water to wet his mouth and throat, but do NOT allow your dog to drink copious amounts! You may also spray the paw pads with rubbing alcohol. This causes immediate evaporation to help cool them off. Note: do not apply alcohol to other parts of the body as this may cause other problems.

Take your dog's temperature, this is best done rectally to get the most accurate reading. If the temperature is above 103 degrees, there is a good chance it is still rising. You should start to get concerned at this point and prepare your dog for transport to the nearest vet clinic. Keep in mind that your dog may need to be hospitalized.

Do NOT cover your dog, even with a cold towel. This will prevent the heat from escaping.

During transport, do NOT place him back in his crate, but keep him with you, with windows down and air conditioning on high, to allow evaporation which will aid in the cooling process.

Yes, there is also a danger that dog can become too cold. Monitor the temperatures and stop the cooling process as soon as your dog's temperature reads normally again.

Continue on the vet's, your dog is not saved yet!

Closing What is the old saying? An ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure? Keep your dogs well hydrated, give them adequate shade and ventilation, don’t over exert them or water when the heat index is high, and watch them closely so you know when to pull them before they have had enough.

Don't Cook Your Dog

The Kennel Club is calling for urgent action this summer to prevent irresponsible owners leaving dogs in cars: even with the windows down and water availble, a hot car is an unsuitable place for a dog in the summer sun. As the following video demonstrates.

Don't Cook Your Dog

Always consider your journey with a dog in the car, especailly if you don't have air conditioning, and even with it, a dog can become too hot in the full sun.

Take a look at Open for Dogs website. Kennel Club Dog Friendly Places This site includes all places that are part of the Kennel Club’s Open for Dogs campaign and is the UK’s largest database of places to stay and visit that will welcome you and your dogs.

To re-cap never leave your dog unattended in a car even with the window opens and water available. Never let your dog take part in unnecessary exertion in hot weather or stand in exposed sunlight. Never pass by a dog if you see it suffering: If in doubt call the police or the RSPCA 03001234999

Garlic For Dogs: Poison Or Medicine?

Written by Andrea Partee on February 17, 2013. Posted in Nutrition And Diet4 Comments

When it comes to garlic, most dog owners are divided on their opinion.

A few years ago I wrote about garlic on my website and was pleased when several people thanked me for telling the truth. And then there was this guy who told me I was going to be responsible for the death of hundreds of dogs, if not thousands because I was an idiot. I thanked him for his opinion since we are all entitled to have one, but it bothered me a lot.

Yes, I promote the use of garlic. Fresh, aromatic, organic garlic with a smell that lingers in the kitchen promising either a good meal or a good heal.So why do I go against AVMA warnings and give garlic to my dogs? I do it because common sense and an objective look at both the risks and benefits of garlic tell me it can provide great benefits to dogs with minimal risk. Remember, AMVA (American Medical Veterinary Association) members also think that raw food is unhealthy and would rather dogs eat a processed, chemical laden diet than fresh, raw free-range chicken or vitamin packed green tripe.

Why the controversy over garlic?

The primary reason AVMA is against feeding garlic is that it contains thiosulphate, which can cause hemolytic anemia, liver damage and death. However garlic only contains very small traces of thiosulphate and a dog would have to consume a huge quantity for any negative effects. Using Tylenol (acetaminophen) or benzocaine topical ointments to stop itching are far more likely to cause anemia in dogs.

Garlic’s medicinal properties

There are many health benefits to feeding garlic. Here are some things you might not know about this healthy herb:

• Garlic is a natural antibiotic and won’t affect the good bacteria in the gut which are needed for digestion and immune health
• Garlic is antifungal
• Garlic is antiviral
• Garlic boosts the immune system
• Garlic makes dogs less desirable to fleas
• Garlic is antiparasitic

What kind of garlic?

I stick with fresh, raw organic garlic and keep it on hand as a staple for both cooking and healing. If it’s fresh, I know the medicinal qualities are still there, unlike minced garlic which may originate in China and sit for months in a jar. Powdered garlic doesn’t cut it either. Kyolic Aged Liquid Garlic is a good choice if you don’t want to smash and cut every day.

How much garlic to feed

You can safely give a 1/2 clove per ten pounds of body weight each day, chopped or grated. Two cloves maximum per day for a large dog is a good guideline.

• ½ clove for a 10 + pounds
• 1 clove for a 20 + pounds
• 1 ½ cloves for 30 + pounds
• 2 cloves for 40 + pounds

My dogs are over 70 pounds but I stick with the 2 cloves.

Garlic tips

For optimum health benefits, let garlic sit for 5 to 10 minutes after cutting and before serving (or cooking). This allows the health-promoting allicin to form, so it’s worth the wait.

To get rid of the smell on your hands, rinse them under water while rubbing them with a stainless steel spoon! I don’t know why it works, but bless the woman who told me this long ago.

A great home remedy recipe

An ear medicine I’ve kept on hand for years started out when my kids got ‘swimmers ear’ one summer. It’s simple to make and since garlic is an antibiotic, antibacterial, and antifungal it covers several possibilities.

Crush 2 cloves fresh garlic; wait ten minutes and add them to 1/3 cup olive oil. Heat in a pan (do NOT boil) for several minutes. Let cool. Strain and store in a glass bottle with a dropper and apply it directly in the ears.

The only possible drawback to this remedy is every time I smell it I want pasta and garlic bread!

My dog has a swelling on the elbow

This is known as a bursa ( Hygromas).  These swellings are filled with fluid, normally occuring over a bony area, such as elbow, hocks and boney bottoms.  They will disappear almost as suddenly as they have appeared of their own accord.  For further information see the notes on Bursas.

Liver Shunt Test - Irish Wolfhound Puppies

We always shunt test our puppies, and it is a day we like to get behind us.  With some of our litters our vet and veterinary nurse came to us, but for our last  litters we started to visit our the surgery.  We find that we work as a team: our vet, two if not three nurses and two of us.  We pull up outside the back door and the smooth system commences, with love cuddles and hugs all the way.

Time is of the essence from being fed to having the blood drawn.  Each puppy has blood taken for the bile acid test, and  for AHT.  From experience the samples are best taken from the lower front leg.  Some puppies are very brave and some not so, but there are plenty of us available for the traumatised!  After blood has been taken, each puppy is vet checked, mouth, eyes, ears, heart listened to, joints, stomach and of course the boy bits. 

For ease and expediency I microchip at home, and have the forms ready with the chip identity stickers on.  I also take the rest of the microchip stickers  and these are used on vaccine cards and sample bottles.  My biggest fear has always been mistaken identity, and chipping is I feel the only assured way to be certain. In addition it serves another purpose for new owners as they are assured they get the puppy they have chosen.  This is something that I feel very strongly about. The first bonding moment is very important, and sometimes it’s the puppy who chooses their new owners and home. 

So far I have never had a puppy fail a test, but no doubt that day will come, and I will have to remain strong for that moment. Hence I hate liver shunt test day and waiting for the results.  Although we say we can spot a shunty puppy and so does the vet, but the element of surprise is always there.

What is a Liver Shunt?

Liver shunts cause serious and sometimes fatal outcomes in dogs. A liver shunt, or a portosystemic shunt, is a normal fetal blood vessel that in the womb bypasses liver tissue, allowing the mother’s system to filter out toxins for the developing puppy. In some animals, however, the shunt remains open after the animal is born, compromising its liver function, slowing growth, and eventually resulting in death of many affected animals.

What are bile acids?
Bile acids are produced in the liver and stored in the gallbladder between meals. They are released into the intestines to help break down and absorb fats, and are reabsorbed and stored again until they are needed. Dogs with liver shunts have increased blood bile acid concentrations because the liver does not get a chance to remove and store these chemicals after they are reabsorbed.

So please when buying your puppy ask to see his or her liver shunt certificate, and enquire if that certificate is included in your puppy pack,  because it should be. At no extra cost to the breeder either.  Check the microchip number against your puppy’s number.  This can be found in the centre column underneath the Idexx name.  See Test Report for one of my puppies.  It still happens that breeders don’t test, or say they have tested, and haven’t, for whatever reason. One such incident has happened recently, two puppies were sold and the new owners had to cope with very sick puppies and £4,000 in vets fees each.  Please check and ask for your shunt test report.  

More very useful information can be found here: 

In Accordance with the Irish Wolfhound Club Code of Conduct point 

19)    Are strongly recommended to screen all puppies for Portosystemic Shunt and only stock clear of the condition should be sold. Affected hounds should never be used for breeding.

In Accordance with the Kennel Club Assured Breeder Requirements it states:

Liver shunt testing of all puppies prior to being sold

Irish Wolfhound Puppies- More about less: Exercise!

Please read through this carefully.

Giant breeds, especaily Irish Wolfhound puppies   take much longer to fully develop and they take a certain specialist approach to exercise.  In these notes I try and explain how these pups grow; it is the approach that I am taking with the pups retained here.   I would never say there is a guarantee that you won’t experience any growth problems with your puppy, giant breeds can be genetically predisposed to such things, but there is a lot you can do to prevent it happening by accident.   Some of this information might appear to be overkill but if you can look back and say you did everything you could to rear the puppy carefully, that is better than looking back saying "I wish we hadn’t done this, or I wish we had done that…". I have used some images to help you visualise what I mean. 

Although you can’t wrap your puppy in cotton wool, exercise and general activity does need to be watched especially up to the age of 6 – 7 months, and then managed carefully up to 12 months.  If accidental damage occurs it us usually in the period up to 6 months old.

Most problems in a growing giant breed like the Wolfhound stems from trauma to the growth plates that remain soft until the dog is fully grown, or damage to the cartilage between the bones in the shoulder and stifle.

At the ends of the long bones - particularly in the forelegs - is an area that remains soft until the hound is about 12 months old.  When a young puppy continually does high impact activities i.e. jumps downwards thus putting undue stress on the growth plates, these can become damaged.  

What is Cartiledge? A flexible connective tissue found in many areas in the bodies of humans and other animals, including the joints between bones.

The main conditions we are trying to avoid by being careful with exercise are:

– otherwise called OCD. This is caused by blood deprivation in the joint of the shoulder or less commonly the stifle. This loss of blood flow causes a part of the bone to die. The bone is then reabsorbed by the body, leaving the cartilage it supported prone to damage. The result is fragmentation of cartilage and bone, these fragments lie within the joint space, causing extreme pain to the dog.   Usually this damage is done early on – around 15 – 16 weeks but it can happen up to 9 months.  It is uncertain what the underlying cause of OCD is; whether genetic predisposition; diet or trauma, but what we are trying to do is eliminate the chance of diet and trauma causing it.

– this is a condition usually involving the radius and ulna in the front limbs. Deformities can occur due to damage (could be a knock or a bang) to the growth plate on one of the long bones, and cause it to close prematurely. Consequently one bone keeps growing but the other does not, and twisted forelimbs results.   This is NOT TO BE CONFUSED with a normal ten to two appearance of the feet of a growing puppy. If Carpal Vulgas is apparent you will see it clearly.

You must caution against your puppy performing ‘high impact’ exercise which can be as simple as:

•  Running freely or rough playing with other dogs.
•  Free access to steps or stairs. 
•  Jumping on and off furniture/beds.  
•  Tearing around on a hard concrete surface.
•  Walking for over long periods.  You won’t be taking your puppy ‘out for a walk’ as we would generally understand that to be - before 6 months of age.

Obviously jumping up people should be discouraged anyway.  But anything that puts undue stress on the growth plates needs to be avoided. 

You do not need to worry about development of muscles at this age so the back garden of your property will suffice for the puppy to run free in up to 6 months old. 

THIS DOES NOT MEAN HE NEVER LEAVES THE HOUSE.  On the contrary, you should be spending this time putting puppy in the car and taking him to socialisation situations like getting used to car travel, going to meet the kids from school, going into town where you can sit with a coffee and let him watch the world go by, but nothing that involves long periods of exercise, just a short walk to and from your vehicle. 

You must begin to lead train your puppy as soon as you get him, and take him out to socialise with people and other animals, but not to walk him very far, 5/10 minutes is enough in the street with the intention of meeting traffic and people. He must have been fully vaccinated before you do any of these things. 

Up to 6 months old your garden is enough area for puppy to play in, preferably on grass and not concrete, and always supervised.  We suggest that after 6 months, lead walk the puppy, 20 minutes is enough, and allow only 5 to 10 minutes free off the lead on his own, fully supervised.  Build this up in the intervening months to longer periods and after 12 months your hound should be able to exercise freely.  As a grown adult 1 hour per day combined lead walking and free running will keep your hound in good muscular condition.  You can always call me and compare notes. 

A good indication on whether your puppy is continuing to grow is to feel his knuckles on the forelegs, in a growing pup these are quite bumpy on the front of the leg, whereas in the grown hound – this flattens out.

The only dietary supplement we give to puppies is Glucosamine/MSM which we get from Health Food Stores like Holland and Barrett. The function of this product is to strengthen and protect cartilage. 

Other things that can affect growth in your puppy:

Diet – having your puppy too fat can put undue pressure on the joints.  Please read through carefully the diet sheet and explanation provided. 

If you are worried, or have any concerns over the growth of your puppy PLEASE CONTACT ME.  If any problems do occur please let me know because this is important information I need to be aware of that may impact on future breeding 

courtesy of Jean Timmins 

" Irish Wolfhound Puppies grow like weeds" ~ The Big DO’s and DON’Ts Sheet

I would say the most difficult thing about raising an Irish Wolfhound is keeping them safe from their own exuberance.  They grow like weeds, and you need to perfect the careful balance of nutrition and exercise to protect them.  This seems a particularly hard message to convey to new owners, that such care should be taken for the first year during the growing process.

The Big DO’s and DON’Ts Sheet

Whilst being the proud owner of a Wolfhound puppy is a huge delight it also brings with it a large responsibility, as you are now in charge of rearing the puppy until it fully develops and reaches adulthood. This sheet is designed to guide you through the main pitfalls of bringing up a giant breed puppy and if you follow these simple steps any disasters should be kept to a minimum!

DO:

• Do feed your puppy on a healthy balanced diet. A Complete dog food is recommended that is no higher than 23% protein and 12% fat. Ideally the Complete should also be gluten and grain free and hypoallergenic. It is unlikely that you will be able to find a Complete puppy food that is so low in protein so we advise an adult food either fish or meat based, but without too many minerals.

• Do allow your puppy free exercise in a secure area preferably on grass every day. Although giant breed puppies have fragile bones and joints they do require some exercise to build up muscle tone and stamina and so a run around on the lawn with their owner keeping an eye on them is important.

• Do take your puppy out to meet people and other dogs once it has been fully vaccinated. Socialising your puppy is very important and any dog needs to get used to new places and experiences such as going in the car to visits friends and family or going to the park to meet other dogs

DON’T:

• Don’t over exercise your puppy under any circumstances. Usually Wolfhound puppies are not walked until they are 6 months old and then they are built up gradually, initially only walking for 5 minutes. Despite their size, Wolfhound puppies are very delicate and their growing bones and joints need to be treated with great care. Any mistakes in exercise under a year old can affect the puppy for the rest of its life.

• Don’t let your puppy walk on slippy surfaces such as tiles, laminate flooring, wood flooring or cushion flooring/lino. Slippy floors are responsible for a huge amount of injuries in both puppies and older dogs of all breeds, but giant breed puppies are particularly susceptible to mishaps. They will slide on these slippy surfaces and hurt their legs and other parts of their body. Some of these injuries can have disastrous consequences. 

• Don’t let your puppy play with other dogs unsupervised, even if they are your dogs and they are playing at home. Generally it is recommended that a Wolfhound puppy does not play with older/larger dogs until it is at least a year old. Again, letting your puppy run riot with other dogs is likely to end up with the puppy being hurt or injured.

• Don’t let your puppy walk up and down stairs, and prevent them from jumping out of cars.  Keep impact on all joints to a minimum, even getting on and off sofa's in an exuberant manner may harm.